What happened to all the trees?

The landscape of Galloway is generally rather bare, although sizeable areas are covered by modern forestry plantations. So, what happened to all the old native trees?

Historian Sir Herbert Maxwell, wrote A History of Dumfries and Galloway, published in 1896. He considered the “crannogs” or fortified settlements in the middle of lochs. These took a lot of timber to construct.

Maxwell wrote [pages 17-19] of the crannogs: “Our knowledge of the mode of life pursued and the degree of civilisation attained by the primitive inhabitants of south-western Scotland would be extremely meagre if it rested on the evidence of such terrestrial remains as have survived the operations of agriculture and the successive replacement of ancient structures by new dwellings occupying the old sites. But during the last thirty years attention has been directed to a class of inhabitants which have been so well preserved by reason of the sites occupied as to remain in much the same condition as when their inhabitants deserted them. The presence, moreover, of articles of Roman manufacture indicate these dwellings were contemporary with the Roman Occupation.

“Antiquitaries knew very little about crannogs or lake-dwellings in Scotland, until the exploration in 1862 of a group of them exposed by the drainage of Dowalton Loch in the parishes of Kirkinner, Sorby, and Glasserton. These have yielded fragments of Roman ware of the kind usually called Samian, and in one instance a large bronze vessel, ornamented with the head of Medusa, and bearing on the handle a Roman maker’s name [Footnote: Found on a crannog in Dowalton in 1863. Now in the National Museum of Antiquitaries, Edinburgh].

“More than a hundred years before the time of Agricola [AD40-93, Roman general who conquered much of Britain] Julius Caesar had described the natives of Britain making use of wooden piles and marshes in their intrenchments. Dr Munro declares his belief that this was a universal practice among the Celts, who brought their knowledge of it in their migration from Central and Southern Europe [Footnote: Lake-Dwellings of Europe. By R. Munro, M.D. London 1890, p 491]. Be this as it may, the interest aroused by the discoveries in Dowalton, following on those in the Swiss lakes, has resulted in finding crannogs prevalent all over Scotland, except in those lakes where natural islets provided ready-mage refuge; and it may be safely assumed that they were in universal use among the Selgovae and Novantae at the time of Agricola’s invasion.

“Certain conclusions may be drawn from their structure as to the aspect of the country, and, from the objects found on them, as to the degree of civilisation attained by the inhabitants, their food, and even their clothing.

“In the first place, the immense of material required to build a crannog, which was a framework of massive oak logs mortised together, filled with huge bundles of brushwood secured by innumerable piles of oak, Scots fir, or ash, and decked with solid oak planking, implies the presence of dense forest in a country subsequently wholly denuded of wood. It was estimated that in building a simple crannog which was exposed on the drainage of Barhapple Loch, a very small sheet of water near Glenluce, upwards of 3000 large trees had been employed, besides those used in the erection of dwellings on the island, and the construction of causeways to the shore, an invariable feature in latchstring habitations. This crannog and the buildings on it had been destroyed by fire, as was shown by several large beams partially burnt. Not only were trees abundant where now there are artificial plantations, but they were of great size. Canoes hollowed out of solid oak-trunks are commonly found near crannogs; for although these islands are connected with the shore by causeways, these are always interrupted at the end farthest from the shore, for the purposes of defence. Five such canoes were found among the Dowalton group, varying in length from 25 to 31 feet. It might seem impossible to find in the whole of Wigtownshire living oaks of equal magnitude to these, unless one bears in mind the methods still employed by primitive boat-builders, who wedge out a tree-stem during the process of hollowing, so as to make the breadth of the boat considerably greater than the original diameter of the trunk.

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A hero's Christening robe

There is a wonderful local museum at the town of Dalbeattie which is crammed with fascinating items.

The small museum is a key part of local life and there so many exhibits that there is always something to catch the eye.

In one case there is a beautiful lace Christening robe. This bears a card: “Lady Blantyre's eldest son was Christened in this robe in 1775.”

If there is a mistake in the date, then a story unfolds.

The title of Lord Balantyre was created in 1600 in the Peerage of Scotland for Walter Stewart, who was educated with King James VI of Scotland, who also became James I, King of England and Ireland on the Union in 1707. He was the first monarch to describe himself as King of Great Britain. Walter Stewart was closely involved in arranging the Union. He died on November 5, 1604.

Fast forward ,and we find Robert Walter Stuart (spelling of name had changed) as 11th Lord Balantyre. He was born on June 10, 1777. Perhaps this is the person whose Christening robe is displayed in Dalbeattie museum. The 11th Lord became a distinguished soldier who saw many battles and campaigns, and served all over Europe and also in Egypt and New Zealand. He entered the 3rd Regiment of the Foot Guards at the age of 18. Then he became a captain of the 32nd regiment of Foot, then Lieutenant Colonel of the 42nd (Royal Highland) Regiment – an ancestor of the Black Watch (now an infantry battalion of the Royal Regiment of Scotland.) The 42nd fought with great distinction at the Battle of Quatre Bras in 1816, where it was Mentioned in Despatches by Wellington and it also fought at the Battle of Waterloo.

Could the Christening robe at Dalbeattie Museum actually have been used for the 11th Lord Balantyre?

The last Lord Balantyre, the 12th, was born in 1818 and died in 1900 when the title became extinct as there was no heir. Lots of land obviously went with the title. In 1830 he possessed no less than 4,100 acres, which add up to about 57 square kilometres.

Dalbeattie Museum, 81 High Street, Dalbeattie, DG5 4BS. Open April to October: Monday to Saturday 11am to 4pm; Sundays 2pm to 4pm. Entry free. Private viewings can be arranged. Full wheelchair access. Telephone: 01556 611 657. email: info@dalbeattiemuseum.co.uk. Website: www.dalbeattiemuseum.co.uk.

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More mysterious cups and rings

Throughout Galloway there are many ancient stones bearing round indentations and rings. No-one knows what these represent and one expert says he has counted about a hundred possible explanations advanced by enthusiasts over the years.

What is agreed is that the stones and their “cup and ring markings” "cup and ball markings" are of great age, dating back thousands of years.

Outside the Stewartry Museum, in Castle Douglas, plaster casts of some of these baffling stones are on display. A hand-held board which can be collected inside the museum is written in elegant copperplate handwriting and gives the following information:

“The originals are on an outcrop of rock at the farm at Highbanks, Kirkudbright.

“Cup and Ring markings were man's first attempt at stone sculpture. They were carved at various dates from 3200BC to 700AD. Those shown here were probably made about 1600BC. No-one is certain of the meaning of the Cup and Ring markings but it was probably mystic or religious and in this case may have been made by early copper prospectors to invoke the help of the sun in their search.”

What's your theory?

Also, see earlier post "Cup and Ball markings baffle experts."

Galloway's remarkable fish larder

Fans of fish can see in Galloway one of the most remarkable conservation facilities in the world– the Logan Fish Pond.

This is a personal fish larder created by the owner of a nearby estate to make sure that there would always be fresh fish for his table. The pond still flourishes today under the careful management of Ruth Daynes who has been devoted to the unique place for many years. However, the focus is firmly on conservation these days. The pond , in fact the only one in the world, was created by Andrew McDouall, who was fanatical about his fresh fish. He excavated a natural pool in the rock and improved the flow of water with each tide from the sea. The work started in 1788 and it was finished in 1800. The pool is about 22 feet across, eight feet deep and contains 48,000 gallons of seawater.

Visitors today can see a fascinating variety of wild sea fish living happily in the pond. They swim up to the side when they see anyone standing there, in the hope of receiving food. If the fish are not in danger of getting too fat, then pellets are available to feed them. The flat fish are particularly inquisitive and lie looking up with both curious eyes at the visitor. The cod are just as nosey. Today the pond can contain dab, flounder, plaice, turbot, grey mullet, cod, coley, pollack, cuckoo wrasse, sea scorpions, tub and red gurnard and conger eel. Information boards give details of the residents of the pond and in the slash in the rock through which the seawater enters there are little open tanks where a close up look can be had of the marine life.

The pond is reached by going down a flight of steps that were carved into the rock. Nearby there is an old sea swimming pool and changing house. Ruth first visited the fish pond as a girl and loved it so much that she immediately asked her father if they could buy it. He said no but Ruth is a determined lady and many years later she managed to buy the fascinating pond herself.

Logan Fish Pond can be found 14 miles south of Stranraer, off the B7065, one mile from the Logan Botanic Gardens, which are also well worth a visit. The pond is open every day from May 1 to September 30, from 10am to 5pm, with last admission at 4.30pm. During October it is closed on Mondays. From November 1 to February it is closed to the public. From February to May it is open six days a week but closed on Monday. Entrance charge, £3.50 adults, OAPs £2.50, children 3-16 £1.25. Family £7.50 (2 adults and 2 children with extra children at £1.25 each. Telephone 01776 860 300. www.loganfishpond.org; www.loganfishpond.co.uk; www.myspace.com/loganfishpond; email: loganfishpond@hotmail.com. Also on Facebook.

Bright future for Dark park

The Galloway Forest Park is now home to Britain's only Dark Park where the heavens can be seen by the naked eye in all their night glory.

Achieving the Dark Park designation has been an arduous process, with strict requirements laid down by the International Dark-skies Association (I|DA). In the modern world few people ever really see the stars as light pollution from street lights, floodlights and all sorts of other electric light that glows during the night make it impossible to see the sky properly at night. Most people in the UK today have never seen a proper night sky. Things are different in the 100-square mile Galloway Forest Park. The park is far enough away from major centres of population for light pollution to be almost non-existent and on a clear night the galaxies and stars stretch across the heavens.

Now Galloway Forest Park is an official International Dark Sky Park, after lots of work, surveys and assessments to comply with the IDA requirements. Dark Skies are measured on what is known as “The Bortle dark sky scale.” In inner cities, the magnitude rating can be as low as +4 at best. Up in Galloway, however the new Dark Sky Park skies are rated as +7.1 to +7.5, on a scale that has a score of eight as its maximum. With darkness that black you don't need fancy telescopes to see the wonders of the universe, just your eyes and perhaps a pair of binoculars will do.

People accustomed to visitor attractions where you have to pay to get in, where there are swish visitor centres, cafes, shops and facilities designed to maximise revenue are, apparently a bit confused by the concept of the Dark Sky Park. The park is the darkness and the skies above. There is no central visitor centre. You go into the park at night and look upward. That's it. You don't have to pay anyone.

One woman recently called Scotland's central tourism telephone number to ask about the Galloway Dark Sky Park and was told: “It's shut.” When the dark sky is shut the universe will be officially at an end.

Obviously, in the middle of summer, when this is being written, the nights are short, with the birds starting their dawn chorus at about 4.30am and the light not fading until pub chucking out time. So, the best periods to visit the park are probably during the autumn, winter and early spring.

The Galloway Dark Sky Park has been enthusiastically promoted by the Forestry Commission which administers the whole of the Galloway Forest Park and the project has received input and support from many other people and organisations. The telephone number for the Galloway Forest District is 01671 402 420, email galloway@forestry.gsi.gov.uk.

One guest house that particularly welcomes anyone interested in the night sky is Hillcrest House, at Wigtown (which is Scotland's national book town). Deb and Andrew Firth have just won another Gold Award for their cooking and use of local ingredients and a special Good for the Soul award as the most restful place in Scotland to stay. A special “stargazers box” can be borrowed with everything needed to head into the Dark Park and special packs of food and drink can be ordered to take with you keep up the strength. Hillcrest House, Maidland Place, Wigtown, Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland, DG8 9EU. Telephone 01988 402 018. www.hillcrest-wigtown.co.uk, email: info@hillcrest-wigtown.co.uk.

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Cup and ball markings still baffle

There are many mysteries in Galloway. One of them is the cup and ball markings that are found on stones throughout the region.

All the experts agree that these are very ancient, dating back thousands of years. They consist of circular patterns and, as the name suggests, are often shaped like cups and balls. No-one knows how old they are or what they represent, though it seems reasonable to speculate that they relate to some forgotten system of beliefs.

One writer recorded at least 99 different explanations of the cup and ball markings. You can invent your own and it is as likely to be true as any other. The stone in the photograph can be seen in the museum at Kirkudbright.

Also, see later post "More mysterious cups and rings."

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Carsluith Castle

Anyone driving along the A75 on the way to or from Stranraer will see Carsluith Castle as they pass along the eastern side of Wigtown Bay, between Gatehouse of Fleet and Newton Stewart.

This is a good example of the fortified tower houses that are common throughout Galloway. Not castles in the usual sense, such as the great fortifications surrounded by walls, moats, ditches and other defensive words, these were the homes of prominent local families. These tower houses were very popular in times when raiders had to be kept at bay and where the family could retreat when its own depredations on the neighbours brought retaliatory attacks. Fighting with each other was the prime occupation of the gangster families that lived in the area. Building tower houses was particularly popular during the reign of Scotland's King James VI (1567-1625).

Carsluith Castle was built for the Brown family in the 1560s and is laid out to a standard pattern. The storage cellars are on the ground floor, the great hall with its large fireplace was on the first floor, and the family rooms were on the upper floors. Lookouts were posted on the roof to keep an eye on the surrounding countryside and waters. Life was communal in those days, with the large family, visitors and servants all finding places to sleep wherever they could and only the family head would have enjoyed a private room.

At Carsluith it is likely that the kitchen that prepared meals for big dinners woujld have been in the collection of buildings around the tower. Smaller family meals would have been cooked over the open fire in the great hall. An unusual feature of Carsluith is that it had a second-floor balcony that allowed arriving visitors to be viewed from above. The corbel stones which supported this can still be seen.

The Brown family is said to have emigrated to India in 1748 and it would be interesting to know what became of them. Did they share in the fabulous wealth of the East India Company or did they vanish from history? It appears that the castle was not lived in after their departure.

Today Carsluith Castle is open during the day and the tower is well cared for. The Marrbury Smoke house is also located there, producing delicious gourmet delights from local ingredients. Call 01671 820 476 to find out opening times.

c.www.scotlandssecretsouth.blogspot.com. Phillip Bruce.

Wigtown makes little of its VC winner

Wigtown was the home to the winner of a Victoria Cross, Louis McGuffie, but visitors will have to look hard to find any mention of the fact.

All that can be found is a plaque and a notice half way up the staircase in the County Buildings. In the centre of town. If you don't know it is there then you are out of luck as no mention seems to be made of the First World War hero anywhere else.

Next to the brass plaque is an information panel with the following text.

“Louis McGuffie lived at 1 Main Strreet, Wigtown and along with his three rothers, joined the army early in the war. In 1915 he went to Gallipoli and later was sent to France. He was awarded the Victoria Cross for his part in the battle of Wytschaete in September 1918.

“An officer in the 5th Battalion, the Kings Own Scottish Borderers, described McGuffie's action.

“It was on the 28th of September, during the Wytschaete attack. The chief strong point in the Boche (German) line was Piccadilly Farm, a fortified house held by a number of machine guns. Time and time again McGuffie rushed machine guns by himself, and knocked out or captured their crews. Then, later, it was found that a party of twenty fellows from another battalion had been cut off and surrounded by twice as many Germans. McGuffie took a couple of men with him, made a surprise rush on them, and surrounded and captured all the Boche.

“McGuffie survived the battle but was killed a week later by a stray shell. He was 26 years old.”

The panel has a picture of the VC, which it says is in the Kings Own Scottish Borderers Museum at Berwick on Tweed. According to one local resident, the VC was presented to Louis McGuffie's mother at a ceremony at the County Building and afterwards it was passed around the crowd of friends outside for everyone to inspect.

The Commonwealth War Graves website site gives the following information about the VC winner's grave:

McGuffie, Louis, Private, Service No:17392. Date of death 04/10/1918. Age 23.
Kings Own Scottish Borderers. Nationality UK.
Grave/Memorial Ref: I.D.12
Zantvoorde British Cemetery
Zandvoorde Churchard, Zonnebeke, West-Vlaanderen, Belgium. West Flanders.

The cemetery is a bit inland from Ostend, south of Bruges on the A17.

It would be good to hear from anyone who can add to this story, email: www.raxomnium@gmail.com

c.www.scotlandsecretsouth.blogspot.com. Phillip Bruce.

Two fine fireplaces

One of Scotland's most elegant hotels is the Cally Palace, once the home of the Murrays, great men and women of the 18th century in Galloway.

The beautiful house was completed in 1756 and it is surrounded by extensive rolling landscaped grounds, with forests as a background.

Today the Cally Palace hotel attracts visitors in search of a taste of the elegance of the past with the facilities and cuisine of today.

In the grand main drawing room there is a beautiful marble fireplace, on which stand Chinese vases and a clock, set against gold Chinese pattern walpaper. In another room there is a second, equally stylish fireplace.


The owners of the hotel have lavished care and attention on the interior design, choosing appropriate furnishings and decorations that reflect the ethos of the original house, designed for an 18th century gentleman and his family. The 150 acres of parkland and woodland include an excellent golf course, exclusively for guests, putting and croquet lawns and a tennis court. The hotel facilities include an indoor swimming pool and a fine billiard room, as well as a noted restaurant, gymnasium and spa.

Cally Palace Hotel, Gatehouse of Fleet, Dumfries and Galloway, DG7 2DL. Telephone 01557 814 341. www.callypalace.co.uk info@callypalace.co.uk. It is worth noting that the hotel is not part of a huge chain but is owned by the McMillan group which features a selection of historic luxury hotels in Scotland – www.mcmillanhotels.co.uk.

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Bridging Galloway's rivers came late

The powerfully-flowing rivers of Galloway were always a problem for travellers. By the middle of the 18th century there were still only a few bridges in existence.

In 1737, the Commissioners of the Stewartry of Kirkudbright, signed a contract worth a thousand pounds with William Beck, a mason, to build three bridges, the Bridge of Dee, Tongland old Bridge and Bridge-ford Bridge, over the Black Water of Dee.

The river Cree drains a huge area of wild hills and it had to be crossed when travelling across lower Galloway. The town now known as Creetown was originally named Ferrytown of Cree, which indicates, obviously, that there used to be a ferry there. A ford also existed and it is still marked on the modern Ordnance Survey map.

One of the region's first major bridges was built a little up-river. “The bridge at Newton-Stewart, which first connected Wigtownshire and the Stewartry of Kirkudbright was erected in 1745 at the joint expense of the two counties. It cost 750 pounds sterling. John Douglas, architect. This bridge was swept away by a flood, about the year 1810. The erection of the present bridge (see picture) across the Cree at Newton Stewart, was commenced in the summer of 1813, and built of native granite, chiefly from the moors of Minnigaff, at a cost of 6,000 pounds by Mr Kenneth Mathison of Inverness, who brought masons from Aberdeenshire for that purpose, they being more cunning in the art of splitting and squaring granite, than the craftsmen of Galloway were at that time. Mr Mathison subsequently built the bridge across the Ken at New Galloway, the bridge over the Black Water of Dee at Duchrae, the Pier at Stranraer, the Quay at Port Nessock, and the Harbour of Kirkudbright.

Source: The History of Galloway, from the Earliest Period to the Present Time, volume II, published by John Nicholson, in Kirkudbright, in 1816, page 405.

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Women in their own right

In England tombstones in old churchyards often treat wives as an afterthought.

The wife is usually listed under her husband's surname: “John Smith and Mary Smith, his wife.”

In Scotland, however, women's own names appeared on their tombstones.

This picture, taken in the graveyard of Wigtown Parish Church, shows the grave of Samuel William, who died in 1850. His wife died five years before and is buried in the same grave. She is listed on the stone under her own name “Mary Stewart his spouse.” Several other members of the family are also in the grave, with all the wives similarly referred to by their maiden names.

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Sphagnum moss saved lives

In quiet corners all over Galloway Sphagnum moss grows. The moss covers fallen tree branches, stones, rocks, and flourishes un-noticed today and just a part of the carpet of greenery.

In the First and Second World Wars however, the moss was a vital element in the battle not to kill but to save lives. Sphagnum moss was used extensively in field dressings to be applied to wounds. The moss can hold up to 20 times its dry weight in liquid – ideal for soaking up the blood. And it is extremely acidic which hinders the growth of harmful bacteria and fungi.

In the First World War Sir Dennis Forman, who lived at Beattock, south of Moffat in Annandale, was responsible for organising the collection of the moss throughout the whole of Scotland. Much of the picking was done by hard-working members of the Women's Auxiliary Corps. Sir Dennis wrote at autobiography, Son of Adam, which is quoted on page 105, of the book Annandale, Scotland in Old Photographs, by David Carroll, Sutton Publishing, 1998, ISBN 0 7509 1625 7.

“All manner of sphagnum detritus was piled in the Moss Room,' Sir Denis recalls. 'There were wooden monorails and wide flat sleepers and two-wheeled wooden trolley-like giant scooters...There were jute sacks in their thousands, frames, Heath Robinson machines of all kinds...and in one corner, like grain in a Pharoh's tomb, a dusty pile of sphagnum moss itself.”

Older people around Wigtown Bay, in Galloway, still remember the moss being collected in local woods and damp places.

A young woodsman who works today amidst the trees confirmed that the sphagnum moss is flourishing where it is left in peace. Apparently, it is very popular with the deer. If they injure themselves or have aches and pains they lie down on patches of the moss.

The biggest threat today to the moss, also known as peat moss, is the draining of wetlands to create more farmland. Large scale extraction of moss, which could see deposits laid down over thousands of years stripped in a week, has largely stopped. In England 90 per cent of peat bogs have been destroyed. Today, New Zealand has developed a sustainable moss industry. The moss is very popular in a wide range of products, particularly for gardeners where it is added to bagged soils to increase water retention capacity. Moss is also essential in growing mushrooms and it makes a fine habitat in which to breed tarantula spiders.

Ancient human bodies have been preserved for thousands of years in moss bogs. Although the bones have dissolved, the skin, hair and clothing is marvellously preserved. Food was also preserved and “bog butters” dating back 2,000 years have been found in Scotland and Ireland. In the past dried moss was used by people living in the Arctic as insulation.

If you are thinking, however, of using moss as a home remedy, be careful. If applied directly to the skin, abrasions, cuts and scratches can allow the spores of the Sporotrichosis disease to enter the body. Perhaps that is why in the dressings used in wars it was carefully packed inside bandages to keep it from direct contact with open wounds.

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Iron nails at ancient church

The ancient church at Cruggleton sits at the site of what was once an important settlement of the Britons who once inhabited Galloway. Long afterwards a castle was built there but it is now in ruins and there are no traces of any settlement. Today the place is the preserve of the sheep and the circling crows.

The little church is surrounded by trees and a wall with stone steps set into it that allow the rare visitor to climb over and walk around the building. This door set with iron and huge hinges is particularly impressive. Cruggleton Church can be found on the B7063 a little south of Garlieston,

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Traces of the Vikings in Borgue blood?

Scholars hare argued for ages over the extend of Viking settlement in Galloway, with theories verging from the view that they were everywhere to the view that some were invited in and settled only in particular places to protect the locals from attack from wilder Norsemen.

Today the quiet village of Borgue, near Kirkudbright, is pretty and peaceful. But it is speculated that the name comes from the Old Norse language.

There is no better explanation of the history of the region than “Galloway, a Land Apart,” by Andrew McCulloch, 2000, published by Birlinn Limited, 579 pages, ISBN 1 84158 027 9.

It seems there may still be Vikings at Borgue, and McCulloch quotes on page 72, an 18th century source, “Heron, R. Observations made in a journey through the western counties of Scotland in the Autumn of 1792, 2 vols (Perth, 1793).

Heron wrote:, volume two page 204: “It is worthy of notice that the inhabitants of the district of Borgue...were long regarded by other people in the district as a sort of peculiar, insulated tribe. The families of the farmers had been settled there for many generations...were all mutually related by intermarriage [and] a person of singular appearance of manners was commonly said by the people of the country to be a Borgue body...I take them to have been a more unmixed race either of Danes or Anglo-Saxons than remained in any other part of this country.”

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Mysterious stones stand the test of time

Students of the strange should visit the Torehouse Stones which stand about three miles west of Wigtown, Scotland.

This is one of the best preserved ancient stone circles in Britain. Although much smaller than sites such as Stonehenge all the stones are still present and in good condition. There are 19 granite boulders, set on their ends. Three of the boulders are in the centre of the circle. The site is unusual for the area and is of a type more commonly found in northeast Scotland or in Ireland.

Of course, whenever a stone circle is mentioned lovers of myth quickly refer to the Druids although sceptics sigh at the wilder flights of fancy. What is certain is that the Torehouse Stones are very ancient indeed, perhaps Bronze Age (3300BC to 1200BC).

Local legend maintains that they are the burial place of King Galdus, a hero who fought the Romans in about 80AD. The three central stones are supposed to cover his grave while other stones a little distance to the north, across the road, are said to be where his generals lie and nearby cairns are said to be graves of soldiers. The circle certainly dates back a thousand years or more before the Romans came anywhere near the area but, who knows, perhaps such a significant site was used to bury the King much later? Are the stones across the road “heel stones” related to astronomical alignments or observations? The site has never been excavated so there are plenty of questions to be asked. If this site was “down south” it would have been massively investigated with all sorts of academic research and New Age speculation.

The diameter of the stone circle is from 61 to 66 feet and the stones are positioned between five and 11 feet apart, with the ones on the west side being smaller and closer to each other than on the west. It is unusual to find three stones in the centre of such circles. The stone in the centre of the trio is smaller than the other two and they are arranged in a line running northeast to southwest.

The site, which is open all the time and free, is in the care of Historic Scotland – see http://www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/index/places/propertyresults/propertydetail.htm?PropID=PL_291&PropName=Torhouse%20Stone%20Circle The stones are right next to the B733 road.

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What's wrong with Foul Hole?

A little outside Newton Stewart in Galloway there is a pleasant spot which marked on the map with the name Foul Hole.

Quite what the undistinguished triangle of land at a road junction has done to deserve this name is not known but fans of great addresses will want to add it to their collection.

Inspection of the site reveals piles of stones and bits and pieces that show that a building once stood there but with no clues as to whether it was a house or some other structure.

In Russia of old aristocrats enjoyed giving villages on their great estates insulting names to reflect their disdain for the peasantry. However, this was not a popular practice in Britain where the peasants could be an unruly mob. Perhaps the Foul Hole name commemorates a swamp or a bog that once existed at the road junction?

Foul Hole is a little to the north of the site of the ancient church, now vanished, of Penninghame Parish which was the centre of the local community before Newton Stewart was built. Today it is a lonely spot. The graveyard contains many interesting memorials, particularly the 18th century stones with their skulls, bones, angels and hourglasses representing fleeting time.

See the Ordnance Survey Explorer Map 311, grid ref 413 618.

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Galloway's gorgeous apple

In 1267 a Dominican Friary was founded in Wigtown by the enormously wealthy Devorgilla, wife of John Balliol, after whom the Oxford college is named.

The monastery was situated near to where the current Church of Scotland church stands, see picture. The monastery was closed during the Reformation and it is thought that some of the stones from its buildings were used in nearby buildings. The friars used to fish in Wigtown Bay and were known for their skills in the orchards where a delicious pippin apple was cultivated.

There are few records of the monastery but the pilgrimage route to the ancient holy place of Whithorn passed close by and it is said that pilgrims were grateful to be given apples by the friars. Could some of the ancient rootstock be still hiding away somewhere around the former abbey's location?

In the middle of the 19th century, apple enthusiasts recorded the discovery of the Galloway Pippin, which is probably the tree that was cultivated at Wigtown. This is said to be an attractive apple and several people in Wigtown have trees flourishing in their gardens.

A good book to read is “Apples in Scotland,” by John Butterworth, Langford Press, ISBN 1-904078-00-1, email: ian@book-corner.co.uk

There is a picture of The Galloway Pippin on page 33 with the caption: “Ancient long-keeping cooker from Wigtown, known locally as 'Croft an Righ' (garden of the King). He writes on page 56: “Galloway Pippin' is a late cooker, eaten by some, which has been associated with the area around Wigtown in Galloway 'since time immemorial.' The local name 'Croft-an-Righ, is the same as the same name given by the Romans to the locality, and means 'garden of the king.' There is still a property in Wigtown with this name, with a tree of the same name! Not surprisingly, there are a number of good reports from this area. My inclined cordon has been excellent, and my young standard made a very promising start to cropping. I attribute the latter's development of canker to the fact that its branches were broken the ground trampled by cattle.”

Wigtown gardener Maggie recommends ordering Galloway Pippin trees from Butterworths' Organic Nursery, Garden Cottage, Auchinleck Estate, Cumnock, Ayrshire, KA18 2LR. Tel 01290 551 088. www.webage.co.uk/apples/ “200 years ago there were hundreds of acres of orchards in Clydesdale, the Borders and elsewhere. Our aim is to re-establish fruit tree growing in Scotland by making available suitable varieties, including some of the 40-Scottish-raised apple varieties. All our trees are raised to official organic standards.”

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