What happened to all the trees?

The landscape of Galloway is generally rather bare, although sizeable areas are covered by modern forestry plantations. So, what happened to all the old native trees?

Historian Sir Herbert Maxwell, wrote A History of Dumfries and Galloway, published in 1896. He considered the “crannogs” or fortified settlements in the middle of lochs. These took a lot of timber to construct.

Maxwell wrote [pages 17-19] of the crannogs: “Our knowledge of the mode of life pursued and the degree of civilisation attained by the primitive inhabitants of south-western Scotland would be extremely meagre if it rested on the evidence of such terrestrial remains as have survived the operations of agriculture and the successive replacement of ancient structures by new dwellings occupying the old sites. But during the last thirty years attention has been directed to a class of inhabitants which have been so well preserved by reason of the sites occupied as to remain in much the same condition as when their inhabitants deserted them. The presence, moreover, of articles of Roman manufacture indicate these dwellings were contemporary with the Roman Occupation.

“Antiquitaries knew very little about crannogs or lake-dwellings in Scotland, until the exploration in 1862 of a group of them exposed by the drainage of Dowalton Loch in the parishes of Kirkinner, Sorby, and Glasserton. These have yielded fragments of Roman ware of the kind usually called Samian, and in one instance a large bronze vessel, ornamented with the head of Medusa, and bearing on the handle a Roman maker’s name [Footnote: Found on a crannog in Dowalton in 1863. Now in the National Museum of Antiquitaries, Edinburgh].

“More than a hundred years before the time of Agricola [AD40-93, Roman general who conquered much of Britain] Julius Caesar had described the natives of Britain making use of wooden piles and marshes in their intrenchments. Dr Munro declares his belief that this was a universal practice among the Celts, who brought their knowledge of it in their migration from Central and Southern Europe [Footnote: Lake-Dwellings of Europe. By R. Munro, M.D. London 1890, p 491]. Be this as it may, the interest aroused by the discoveries in Dowalton, following on those in the Swiss lakes, has resulted in finding crannogs prevalent all over Scotland, except in those lakes where natural islets provided ready-mage refuge; and it may be safely assumed that they were in universal use among the Selgovae and Novantae at the time of Agricola’s invasion.

“Certain conclusions may be drawn from their structure as to the aspect of the country, and, from the objects found on them, as to the degree of civilisation attained by the inhabitants, their food, and even their clothing.

“In the first place, the immense of material required to build a crannog, which was a framework of massive oak logs mortised together, filled with huge bundles of brushwood secured by innumerable piles of oak, Scots fir, or ash, and decked with solid oak planking, implies the presence of dense forest in a country subsequently wholly denuded of wood. It was estimated that in building a simple crannog which was exposed on the drainage of Barhapple Loch, a very small sheet of water near Glenluce, upwards of 3000 large trees had been employed, besides those used in the erection of dwellings on the island, and the construction of causeways to the shore, an invariable feature in latchstring habitations. This crannog and the buildings on it had been destroyed by fire, as was shown by several large beams partially burnt. Not only were trees abundant where now there are artificial plantations, but they were of great size. Canoes hollowed out of solid oak-trunks are commonly found near crannogs; for although these islands are connected with the shore by causeways, these are always interrupted at the end farthest from the shore, for the purposes of defence. Five such canoes were found among the Dowalton group, varying in length from 25 to 31 feet. It might seem impossible to find in the whole of Wigtownshire living oaks of equal magnitude to these, unless one bears in mind the methods still employed by primitive boat-builders, who wedge out a tree-stem during the process of hollowing, so as to make the breadth of the boat considerably greater than the original diameter of the trunk.

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A hero's Christening robe

There is a wonderful local museum at the town of Dalbeattie which is crammed with fascinating items.

The small museum is a key part of local life and there so many exhibits that there is always something to catch the eye.

In one case there is a beautiful lace Christening robe. This bears a card: “Lady Blantyre's eldest son was Christened in this robe in 1775.”

If there is a mistake in the date, then a story unfolds.

The title of Lord Balantyre was created in 1600 in the Peerage of Scotland for Walter Stewart, who was educated with King James VI of Scotland, who also became James I, King of England and Ireland on the Union in 1707. He was the first monarch to describe himself as King of Great Britain. Walter Stewart was closely involved in arranging the Union. He died on November 5, 1604.

Fast forward ,and we find Robert Walter Stuart (spelling of name had changed) as 11th Lord Balantyre. He was born on June 10, 1777. Perhaps this is the person whose Christening robe is displayed in Dalbeattie museum. The 11th Lord became a distinguished soldier who saw many battles and campaigns, and served all over Europe and also in Egypt and New Zealand. He entered the 3rd Regiment of the Foot Guards at the age of 18. Then he became a captain of the 32nd regiment of Foot, then Lieutenant Colonel of the 42nd (Royal Highland) Regiment – an ancestor of the Black Watch (now an infantry battalion of the Royal Regiment of Scotland.) The 42nd fought with great distinction at the Battle of Quatre Bras in 1816, where it was Mentioned in Despatches by Wellington and it also fought at the Battle of Waterloo.

Could the Christening robe at Dalbeattie Museum actually have been used for the 11th Lord Balantyre?

The last Lord Balantyre, the 12th, was born in 1818 and died in 1900 when the title became extinct as there was no heir. Lots of land obviously went with the title. In 1830 he possessed no less than 4,100 acres, which add up to about 57 square kilometres.

Dalbeattie Museum, 81 High Street, Dalbeattie, DG5 4BS. Open April to October: Monday to Saturday 11am to 4pm; Sundays 2pm to 4pm. Entry free. Private viewings can be arranged. Full wheelchair access. Telephone: 01556 611 657. email: info@dalbeattiemuseum.co.uk. Website: www.dalbeattiemuseum.co.uk.

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More mysterious cups and rings

Throughout Galloway there are many ancient stones bearing round indentations and rings. No-one knows what these represent and one expert says he has counted about a hundred possible explanations advanced by enthusiasts over the years.

What is agreed is that the stones and their “cup and ring markings” "cup and ball markings" are of great age, dating back thousands of years.

Outside the Stewartry Museum, in Castle Douglas, plaster casts of some of these baffling stones are on display. A hand-held board which can be collected inside the museum is written in elegant copperplate handwriting and gives the following information:

“The originals are on an outcrop of rock at the farm at Highbanks, Kirkudbright.

“Cup and Ring markings were man's first attempt at stone sculpture. They were carved at various dates from 3200BC to 700AD. Those shown here were probably made about 1600BC. No-one is certain of the meaning of the Cup and Ring markings but it was probably mystic or religious and in this case may have been made by early copper prospectors to invoke the help of the sun in their search.”

What's your theory?

Also, see earlier post "Cup and Ball markings baffle experts."

Galloway's remarkable fish larder

Fans of fish can see in Galloway one of the most remarkable conservation facilities in the world– the Logan Fish Pond.

This is a personal fish larder created by the owner of a nearby estate to make sure that there would always be fresh fish for his table. The pond still flourishes today under the careful management of Ruth Daynes who has been devoted to the unique place for many years. However, the focus is firmly on conservation these days. The pond , in fact the only one in the world, was created by Andrew McDouall, who was fanatical about his fresh fish. He excavated a natural pool in the rock and improved the flow of water with each tide from the sea. The work started in 1788 and it was finished in 1800. The pool is about 22 feet across, eight feet deep and contains 48,000 gallons of seawater.

Visitors today can see a fascinating variety of wild sea fish living happily in the pond. They swim up to the side when they see anyone standing there, in the hope of receiving food. If the fish are not in danger of getting too fat, then pellets are available to feed them. The flat fish are particularly inquisitive and lie looking up with both curious eyes at the visitor. The cod are just as nosey. Today the pond can contain dab, flounder, plaice, turbot, grey mullet, cod, coley, pollack, cuckoo wrasse, sea scorpions, tub and red gurnard and conger eel. Information boards give details of the residents of the pond and in the slash in the rock through which the seawater enters there are little open tanks where a close up look can be had of the marine life.

The pond is reached by going down a flight of steps that were carved into the rock. Nearby there is an old sea swimming pool and changing house. Ruth first visited the fish pond as a girl and loved it so much that she immediately asked her father if they could buy it. He said no but Ruth is a determined lady and many years later she managed to buy the fascinating pond herself.

Logan Fish Pond can be found 14 miles south of Stranraer, off the B7065, one mile from the Logan Botanic Gardens, which are also well worth a visit. The pond is open every day from May 1 to September 30, from 10am to 5pm, with last admission at 4.30pm. During October it is closed on Mondays. From November 1 to February it is closed to the public. From February to May it is open six days a week but closed on Monday. Entrance charge, £3.50 adults, OAPs £2.50, children 3-16 £1.25. Family £7.50 (2 adults and 2 children with extra children at £1.25 each. Telephone 01776 860 300. www.loganfishpond.org; www.loganfishpond.co.uk; www.myspace.com/loganfishpond; email: loganfishpond@hotmail.com. Also on Facebook.

Bright future for Dark park

The Galloway Forest Park is now home to Britain's only Dark Park where the heavens can be seen by the naked eye in all their night glory.

Achieving the Dark Park designation has been an arduous process, with strict requirements laid down by the International Dark-skies Association (I|DA). In the modern world few people ever really see the stars as light pollution from street lights, floodlights and all sorts of other electric light that glows during the night make it impossible to see the sky properly at night. Most people in the UK today have never seen a proper night sky. Things are different in the 100-square mile Galloway Forest Park. The park is far enough away from major centres of population for light pollution to be almost non-existent and on a clear night the galaxies and stars stretch across the heavens.

Now Galloway Forest Park is an official International Dark Sky Park, after lots of work, surveys and assessments to comply with the IDA requirements. Dark Skies are measured on what is known as “The Bortle dark sky scale.” In inner cities, the magnitude rating can be as low as +4 at best. Up in Galloway, however the new Dark Sky Park skies are rated as +7.1 to +7.5, on a scale that has a score of eight as its maximum. With darkness that black you don't need fancy telescopes to see the wonders of the universe, just your eyes and perhaps a pair of binoculars will do.

People accustomed to visitor attractions where you have to pay to get in, where there are swish visitor centres, cafes, shops and facilities designed to maximise revenue are, apparently a bit confused by the concept of the Dark Sky Park. The park is the darkness and the skies above. There is no central visitor centre. You go into the park at night and look upward. That's it. You don't have to pay anyone.

One woman recently called Scotland's central tourism telephone number to ask about the Galloway Dark Sky Park and was told: “It's shut.” When the dark sky is shut the universe will be officially at an end.

Obviously, in the middle of summer, when this is being written, the nights are short, with the birds starting their dawn chorus at about 4.30am and the light not fading until pub chucking out time. So, the best periods to visit the park are probably during the autumn, winter and early spring.

The Galloway Dark Sky Park has been enthusiastically promoted by the Forestry Commission which administers the whole of the Galloway Forest Park and the project has received input and support from many other people and organisations. The telephone number for the Galloway Forest District is 01671 402 420, email galloway@forestry.gsi.gov.uk.

One guest house that particularly welcomes anyone interested in the night sky is Hillcrest House, at Wigtown (which is Scotland's national book town). Deb and Andrew Firth have just won another Gold Award for their cooking and use of local ingredients and a special Good for the Soul award as the most restful place in Scotland to stay. A special “stargazers box” can be borrowed with everything needed to head into the Dark Park and special packs of food and drink can be ordered to take with you keep up the strength. Hillcrest House, Maidland Place, Wigtown, Dumfries and Galloway, Scotland, DG8 9EU. Telephone 01988 402 018. www.hillcrest-wigtown.co.uk, email: info@hillcrest-wigtown.co.uk.

©www.scotlandssecretsouth.blogspot.com

Cup and ball markings still baffle

There are many mysteries in Galloway. One of them is the cup and ball markings that are found on stones throughout the region.

All the experts agree that these are very ancient, dating back thousands of years. They consist of circular patterns and, as the name suggests, are often shaped like cups and balls. No-one knows how old they are or what they represent, though it seems reasonable to speculate that they relate to some forgotten system of beliefs.

One writer recorded at least 99 different explanations of the cup and ball markings. You can invent your own and it is as likely to be true as any other. The stone in the photograph can be seen in the museum at Kirkudbright.

Also, see later post "More mysterious cups and rings."

©www.scotlandssecretsouth.blogspot.com

Carsluith Castle

Anyone driving along the A75 on the way to or from Stranraer will see Carsluith Castle as they pass along the eastern side of Wigtown Bay, between Gatehouse of Fleet and Newton Stewart.

This is a good example of the fortified tower houses that are common throughout Galloway. Not castles in the usual sense, such as the great fortifications surrounded by walls, moats, ditches and other defensive words, these were the homes of prominent local families. These tower houses were very popular in times when raiders had to be kept at bay and where the family could retreat when its own depredations on the neighbours brought retaliatory attacks. Fighting with each other was the prime occupation of the gangster families that lived in the area. Building tower houses was particularly popular during the reign of Scotland's King James VI (1567-1625).

Carsluith Castle was built for the Brown family in the 1560s and is laid out to a standard pattern. The storage cellars are on the ground floor, the great hall with its large fireplace was on the first floor, and the family rooms were on the upper floors. Lookouts were posted on the roof to keep an eye on the surrounding countryside and waters. Life was communal in those days, with the large family, visitors and servants all finding places to sleep wherever they could and only the family head would have enjoyed a private room.

At Carsluith it is likely that the kitchen that prepared meals for big dinners woujld have been in the collection of buildings around the tower. Smaller family meals would have been cooked over the open fire in the great hall. An unusual feature of Carsluith is that it had a second-floor balcony that allowed arriving visitors to be viewed from above. The corbel stones which supported this can still be seen.

The Brown family is said to have emigrated to India in 1748 and it would be interesting to know what became of them. Did they share in the fabulous wealth of the East India Company or did they vanish from history? It appears that the castle was not lived in after their departure.

Today Carsluith Castle is open during the day and the tower is well cared for. The Marrbury Smoke house is also located there, producing delicious gourmet delights from local ingredients. Call 01671 820 476 to find out opening times.

c.www.scotlandssecretsouth.blogspot.com. Phillip Bruce.